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Uz news is never good...

Nathan has collected updates to the "missing" Uzbek opposition leader, Sanjar Umarov, now "accused" of crimes reminiscent of how the Andijon businessmen were accused (although for different charges) and detained leading up to the Andijon violence earlier this year.

Its hard to predict what will happen now, in the midst of the trials, increasing focus on the Uzbek Government's unrestrained violations of human rights, restriction of free press*, and repression of civil liberties of the people.  Its anyone's guess, but who's ball-game do they think they're playing?

*BBC temporarily shut down it's office in Uzbekistan

"Over the past four months since the unrest in Andijan, BBC staff in Uzbekistan have been subjected to a campaign of harassment and intimidation which has made it very difficult for them to report on events in the country,"

"Hate"

My friend Zain has a nice post about the language of "hate" and how it really doesn't exist in the Uzbek language.  Even if it did, we never heard it in our 1 1/2 years living and working in the country.

"...for a people who live in one of the most corrupt and difficult societies in the world, they don't really say "i hate". now, this is just my experience, but i spoke with as many Uzbeks as the next person, and i never heard an Uzbek express himself as having hatred toward another person or thing. the most anyone would say - if you could get them to say it - was that they disliked not having jobs, or that gas was expensive; but they wouldn't even say they disliked those things. Uzbeks said it more matter-of-factly: ish yoq, benzin qummat, pul kam; no work, gas expensive, money little."

"Missing"

This latest report about an opposition leader in Uzbekistan gone missing has gone around the blogsphere but I heard it here first while looking to just catch up with a good friend, get some distracting news away from all the emotionally challenging research on the situation in Darfur. No. Just more bad news in a different part of the world - a part where I called 'home' for more than a year, where I feel indebted to all the people who taught me, cared for me, and protected me throughout my time there, where they are, still. I swear, if everyone had a personal connection to all that is wrong in the world, we would definitely find a way to fix it.

The person missing is Sanjar Umarov, and here Nathan has posted an interview with him a few months back.

So while I continue my research on Sudan, as our opportunity to work there is still looming, my hopes are still with Uzbekistan and its potential for progress.

Northern Sudan

48326662_2e1ceef1da
Image: Vit Hassan

This is an excerpt from National Geographic feature on "Shattered Sudan":

Did you know?

"Its once-beautiful coral buildings are now crumbling ruins, but the ancient port of Suakin Island remains a symbol of the ebb and flow of Sudanese culture.

The island sits just 36 miles (58 kilometers) south of Port Sudan on the country's eastern Red Sea coast. For nearly 600 years—off and on—it was the center of a trading network that stretched from eastern Sudan to India and China, Egypt and Iraq in the north, and Ethiopia and Kenya to the south.

As the eastern outlet for the Nile Valley, Suakin's strategic location helped to bridge Asia, Africa, and several Middle Eastern countries. It became a gateway for Islam to reach traditional African religions. When the Ottoman Turks rose to power in the 16th century, Suakin provided African pilgrims on their way to Mecca a safer alternative than the traditional route through occupied Egypt. Archaeologists believe that Ramses III used the island as a trading port as far back as the 10th century B.C.

Suakin peaked in prosperity during the boom years of the slave trade in the 19th century. But the development of steamer ships, the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, the creation of Port Sudan in the early 1900s, and encroaching coral reefs that made the shallow, narrow harbor entry difficult to navigate diminished Suakin's main livelihood. Finally, after years of toil and triumph and a brief resurgence in the 1920s, the island town declined and descended into decay. All that remains of Suakin are piles of rubble and the silent, shadowed remnants of a historic city."

Tough

And nature doesn't give them a break either...

Sandstorm
Image: 1st Prize Winner, Nature, of World Press Photo Competition.

In this photo, a sandstorm blasts through housing of a group of displaced people in Sudan, just outside the Darfur border. (Yes, those twigs are houses.)

Simply...

From VOA as posted on Sudan: Passion of the Present:

"They say when two elephants fight it is the grass who suffers." - Lam Akol, Sudanese Foreign Minister and a high-ranking official of the Sudanese People's Liberation Army

Sudanmother_n_child
Image: "Me and Ophelia"

As I try to decipher the web of violence in Sudan over the past 20+ years and the recent escalation, I am awed by this quote that strikes at the heart of the problem. It puts into focus exactly where our objectives should be in our efforts to help.

Limbo Days

Its a limbo before knowing what or where we will be doing next. After the daily flurry of wedding planning, we are now knee deep into preparing G for the Foreign Service oral exam on November 2nd. I can only coach and assist here since I did not pass the written (the assumption, of course, is that my chosen career track made my exam more difficult, but who are we kidding). The security clearance forms have been the most daunting aspect of this whole process by far. And it doesn't help that myself and my immediate family members have had multiple name mutations (some formal, some informal), as well as varying citizenship status...to make it all the more easier for the spooks to check up on us...(sorry honey).

There are also possible job opportunities in the most lovely of places - Darfur, Sudan. But really, if you read the reports and accounts I've linked on my side bar, you can only want to help.

And lastly, if no one will hire us in the end, we have formed our own non-profit organization - incorporated in the State of Colordo, with a mission to fund development work overseas (501(c)(3) pending). Its amazing how low the pay-scale can be when you're paying yourself.

But its a glorious fall here in Denver, making these limbo days the most precious to enjoy...

Courage

In an environment of pervasive fear and paranoia, this woman's testimony in the Andijon trials is a brave act. I can only hope that she and her family have some form of protection.

Baggage

A rare rainy day in Colorado has forced me to finally sort through the one and only piece of luggage that was sent to me by Peace Corps after the evacuation.  It contained all paper work related to me personally, Peace Corps, and my NGO work in Uzbekistan.  It was the only one that had gone missing after my original evac from Andijon and did not materialize again until it was too late to take with me on the day of our final departure from the country.  My semi-paranoid state of mind at the time had me thinking that some power-that-be was checking me out, not only for my illicit blogging against Peace Corps wishes but the fact that I was one of the few foreigners who had returned to Andijon when all foreign presence was prohibited by the government.  I'll never know.

Sifting through the memories brought back a time so far removed from my daily life now.  And while Uzbekistan enters my mind, still, more than once a day, feeling the familiar dusty grime on talismans of my Uzbek days brings back unexpectedly strong feelings of detest and love for the life I experienced there...the frustrating Russian vocabulary lists, love notes from my now new husband, bank receipts from when I managed to get money out of the bank, several squished paper cranes I obessively folded on cold, dark, nights, community project descriptions...

...too many to list here or to think about too deeply.  I could have thrown the entire suitcase out and spend the time sorting through my wedding pictures instead, but even though there are no more suitcases to unpack, somehow I think there is a lot more processing of my experiences in Uzbekistan to be done.

Being of service...

Below is a fellow Uzbekistan RPCV's account of his recent volunteer experience with the Red Cross. In addition, several RPCV's from our group are now in Romania teaching English to Uzbek refugees from the Andijon massacre, and another just won a $10,000 grant to continue the water and roofing project for the health clinic that she was forced to abandon because of our evacuation. I am so proud to be amongst such great people.

"Ann and I returned to Michigan this week after serving three weeks in a Red Cross shelter in Gonzales, Louisiana. We were there because of Hurricane Katrina and later Hurricane Rita.

Lamar-Dixon

Our shelter was at the Lamar-Dixon Expo Center, which is akin to a county fairground, complete with numerous buildings. Lamar-Dixon is about 40 miles northwest of New Orleans and 20 miles southeast of Baton Rouge. The shelter housed about 800 people when we arrived, down from about 1,700 when Katrina first hit. One day while we were there a photo from the shelter was on the front page of the Washington Post. What prompted the coverage was that two couples living in the shelter were married.

In addition, to the human shelter at Lamar-Dixon, there was a shelter for family pets rescued from New Orleans. That shelter housed more than 1,500 dogs, hundreds of horses, and a 300 pound pet pig that was featured on national news.

Most of the Red Cross shelter residents were poor, black, and from New Orleans. Most arrived before Katrina, meaning that while poor they had sufficient means to be able to drive out of town unlike those people who got stranded in the Superdome and elsewhere. People lived in clusters of cots and air-mattresses throughout one large room.

The good news about this shelter and others is that people had a dry place to stay, were in air-conditioning, had plenty of food, access to showers, and medical care. The people were given Red Cross debit cards and were able to get to stores to buy needed goods. Red Cross provided free internet service enabling the residents to apply on-line for FEMA assistance. The people were in a safe environment, since the Arizona National Guard screened people coming onto the expo grounds and patrolled the shelter itself. The only crime reported was some thievery.

The bad news was that the situation only alleviated problems in the short run and that most residents would be unable to return to their homes for a long time to come, if ever. The shelter was expected to stay open for months, although the parish which owns the property at one point tried to get the shelter closed to make room for an October festival. With some pressure, the local officials backed down.

People not in shelters were and are much worse off. There are many thousands of people crammed into the houses and apartments of family and friends. We frequently heard of 25 or 30 people living in one small apartment. Others were even worse off, living in their cars. Making matters worse was these people did not have access to Red Cross and went for weeks without any financial assistance. In our last week in Louisiana, Red Cross opened up relief offices. Volunteers handed out as much as $2 million each in debit cards per day. As you might guess, people lined up for miles at these relief centers and camped out over night so as not to lose their places in line. This emergency aid was extraordinarily critical for the well-being of the thousands of people who had been displaced.

Each shelter throughout the region was unique. Lamar-Dixon was generally pleasant and safe. In contrast, friends who served in another Louisiana shelter said that place had a sizeable criminal element. Metal detectors had to be installed to keep out knives and guns. Another friend served in the Astrodome in Houston. He said that place, given the immensity of its size, was very inhospitable.

Our Jobs and Living Arrangements

We flew from Michigan to Baton Rouge and went to the Red Cross headquarters there, where volunteers were assigned locations. Ann and I said we wanted to work in a shelter, and that is how we ended up at Lamar-Dixon.

Upon arrival at the shelter, we were assigned to where the need was the greatest at the moment. Ann worked in warehousing/distribution. She helped organize a supply center that distributed toiletries, baby food, diapers, new underwear, and other essentials to the residents. She also helped organize a large supply of donated clothing. (By the way, donated clothing is commonly given in disasters and is not all that useful. People want to buy their own clothing. Red Cross prefers to give people money for such purchases, and that is one reason why financial donations are so important to disaster relief.)

As time went on, Ann began working part-time in helping people relocate out of the region. For example, there were church and other groups in San Diego, Las Vegas, and elsewhere that were willing to host limited numbers of families for extended periods. The catch was that many of our residents had no interest in relocating. They were committed to New Orleans and would not consider seemingly attractive offers. Their attitudes were understandable considering that all they had ever known was life in New Orleans and they were fearful of living elsewhere.

I worked in food service. The manager, John, was a local Red Cross volunteer who had been running food operations since before Katrina struck. He had been working 12+ hours everyday without a break. When I came on board, we worked 12-hour days for a week, but then we were able to spell one another so that we got down to more reasonable hours. As time went on, more volunteers arrived, making food service work-life more pleasant.

Red Cross in general does not cook meals but rather has them catered. We received two shipments daily of food in Cambros shipped from the Baton Rouge River Center, which was the locale of another shelter. If you are unfamiliar with these containers, they measure about 30 inches x 18 inches and 18 inches deep. Each filled Cambro easily weighs 50 pounds. I got so I could sling around these large boxes with ease.

Breakfast was usually cold fare, such as some combination of muffins, Danish, granola bars, and fresh fruit. Lunch was hot dogs, hamburgers, or cold cuts. Dinner was always hot. We served shrimp Creole and jambalaya plus other American standards including ribs, chicken and gravy, and Salisbury steak. We also served snacks in the morning and afternoon.

Until Hurricane Rita approached, we served meals outdoors in a large tent without walls. That required us lugging food between the tent and two storage rooms and a refrigerated semi-trailer. All of this was done in hot weather with high humidity. On several days the temperature went about 100 degrees.

We volunteers stayed in our own shelter about four miles from the main one. We lived like the evacuees, sleeping on cots and air-mattresses. We were at the First United Methodist Church, which provided wonderful hospitality. The facility had a large room for sleeping—at one point over 120 of us—another room with tables for eating and talking, and showers. People from the church washed the volunteers’ clothes. Ann and I only took advantage of that service once. The rest of the time, I washed some of my things in a sink, and we went to a nearby laundromat a couple of times.

Hurricane Rita

As Hurricane Rita approached, the Red Cross leadership was uncertain about what should be done. One scenario was to move all of us to Monroe, which is in northern Louisiana and would have taken many hours to reach. Another scenario was to move us for 24-hours to a more secure shelter and then bring us back.

The decision was made to stay put but to secure the building and take down all of the tents and move all property indoors, such as folding tables and chairs. We ended up taking down the huge dining tent in driving rain.

The night of the storm, some volunteers stayed at the main shelter while the rest of us stayed at our volunteer shelter. That is where Ann and I spent the night. At 2:00 a.m., we were awakened, because rental cars had to be moved. The parking lot had become a giant lake complete with whitecaps. Water started leaking into the sleeping room, including where Ann and I had our air-mattress. After some mopping and sandbagging, that problem was under control. To add to the situation, the electricity went out and stayed out for about six hours.

That was about all that we had to endure from Rita. The storm was quite gentle with us, unlike communities to our west. Indeed, we got some evacuees from the Lake Charles area over the course of the next several days.

After Rita left us, the large dining tent was re-erected, but we no longer served food there. Instead, we served food out of a service room. That made our jobs much easier.

Return to Michigan

Ann and I returned to Michigan, where we live in a modest but comfortable home on a beautiful lake. The serenity of the situation makes one almost feel guilty considering the people we left behind.

I often have brief flashbacks and have had some disturbing dreams about our experience. I wonder what will happen to the people we met. One elderly gentleman sat expressionless all day, every day by himself. I would give him a cheerful “hello” whenever I saw him, and over time, he warmed up, beginning first with the slightest of nods to me. The ultimate was that one morning he gave me a nice smile, said hello, and patted me on the shoulder. I felt I had helped him in a small way.

Ann and I plan to continue to be active with Red Cross both locally and nationally. We had taken a few disaster relief courses before Katrina and have taken two more since returning to Michigan. While we were in Louisiana, a gas main leak developed in Flint, causing the evacuation of people in a four square-mile area. Temporary shelters were set up for those evacuees. So who knows where we may be needed next."