Friends

The Reminders

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Lampageu, Aceh - Indonesia, December 2006

The location of these pictures is one of the hardest hit spots around the city of Banda Aceh.  Tiny rises of city buildings lie behind the distant palm trees and my imagination conjures up scenes of the 100 foot wave crashing down onto the coast, flooding the city and carrying the villages that would have once been in these photos out to sea.  I see this scene every time I visit this village where we train women to weave rattan as an income generation activity.

Along my drive out to other project sites, I often marvel at the beautiful scenery around me and think, "And this is work?"  The pristine beaches, aqua blue ocean, swelling waves and sparkling sand against a backdrop of tropical forest where the locals claim to spot tigers.  The Western or sometimes referred to as Southern (confusion due to its South/West orientation) coastline is rugged.  Surf is always up and the beaches ladened with shells - a surfer's and beach comber's paradise.  I'm grateful to experience the purity but selfishly hope it never succumbs to the ravages of tourism.  This euphoria over working in paradise lasts a pleasurable two minutes as my daydream fades into reality...

The stony footprints of crushed houses peaking through the underbrush of beach bushes, the dead trunks of coconut trees snapped in half, the rows of temporary shelter barracks, and the scattered boxy, cement houses built by NGO's  all remind me that this place is not exactly paradise lost, but rather devastation found.

2007

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Evidence of 2004 tsunami lingers on 2 years later.  Gle Jong,  Aceh-Indonesia

2006 was not a big blog year for this wanderlust despite yet another travel-filled year.  Nevermind because this blogger hasn't been too worried that her content no longer has the allure of  adventurous tales but has rather turned into a dull (yet colorful) on-line itinerary for her family and friends to follow so they know she's alive enough to turn on her computer wherever she may be...

...at least not until I saw that my dear friend Arabesque has dubbed me as, "Wanderlustress - saving the world one community at at time"!!!  Sure, I might deserve such accolades but does my blog warrant it?!?...not any more.  And here's why:

My brief exposure to the world of humanitarian aid has made me a cynic, not sure of who I'm actually helping, and even more unsure of whether we're doing it right if we are indeed genuinely trying to serve our beneficiaries.  Both the Sudan and this assignment in Aceh has so far felt more like I'm "saving development programs one office at a time".  Having been trained (literally arse kicked) by the corporate world, I miss the professionalism, efficiency and accountability (to name a few essentials missing from my (I'll repeat) brief, and narrow experience in the running of an international NGO).  This is the reason for a vacuous blog and oh so many therapeutic getaways...my time is completely taken up by filling a management vacuum (aka doing some arse kicking myself), the frustrations of which require me to extricate myself from the mere thought of work at the end of each day if I am to maintain a healthy, sane social life and marriage...easier said than done by a work addicted perfectionist.

And what I actually do have to say about my work, the needs of the 2004 tsunami effected community, the Indonesian culture and my daily life travails may be prematurely and wrongly portrayed with hints of cynicism that I dare not write at all.  So call me a coward blogger...Its ok, I've felt this way before after getting burned by Peace Corps for blogging about Andijon in May 2005.  Nearly got myself kicked out just because I was one of the few voices heard and sought after in a little place where the whole world decided to briefly turn its attention.  I have not been comfortable with editorial responsibility since.

But perhaps I take myself too seriously as an aid worker and a blogger, or I'm actually a lazy blog sloth, or a jaded wanderlust finding little in the world worthy of my time and interest...

I'm staying tuned myself to see what 2007 will bring!

Happy New Year Everybody!

X-mas Postcard from Penang

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We have been on the island of Penang in Malaysia for two days and celebrating the holidays by eating lots of good food, walking around historic Georgetown, checking out the beach and relaxing in our Chinese mansion hotel.  All in all a nice break from Aceh!

More pics here >> Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion

Happy Holidays!!!

Bali

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Literally a hop (to Medan), skip (to Jakarta) and a jump (to Denpasar), we spent the long Thanksgiving weekend in Bali and it was, as always, wonderful...

Bali Pictures

Aceh street scenes...

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Work has kept me too busy to post much these days but there is a lot to tell which I will try to do in bits and pieces when I can.  For now, I managed to catch some street scenes around Aceh (well only around the big mosque).  I think the black/white simplicity of the Aceh mosques are beautiful although the tops do look like giant chocolate kisses to me.  It is said that the mosques levitated during the tsunami allowing them to remain in tact, the beginning of tsunami folklore that will be re-told hundreds of years from now.

More pictures in Aceh Mosque Album.

Deepavali in Singapore

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On our way to Aceh we had to stop in Singapore to get our Indonesian visas and it gave me a chance to visit old friends, eat food I've missed and show G a bit more of the city I lived in for so many years.  Our 10 day visit coincided with Deepavali so we went to little India with my good friend Guru for a personal guide to the celebration.  The streets were decorated with lights, the streets were crowded with festivities and people thronged to the temple to pray.  Once inside the temple the atmosphere was serene, scented with burning incense, fruits and flower offerings worshipers made to the multiple  deities idolized in the Hindu culture.

More pictures in Deepavali Album.

Decisions Decisions

Well one thing is certain.  We are going overseas again.  Seems to be in the stars as well as in our hearts to continue with relief/development work.  As soon as we started looking internationally our whole mood changed towards excited anticipation, as opposed to the gloomy dread that hung over any prospect of joining the rat race here in the States.  And our applications have been better received, too, which may result in a couple possibilities.  So far, one option is Banda Aceh, Indonesia.  Decisions will have to be made very soon with an imminent departure around the end of October.  I've already started packing!

Where to next?

We've been back in a place we choose to call "home" in Denver, Colorado for almost four months now.  It feels like a lifetime of change after six months in Darfur.   While  our  work was extremely fulfilling, it left us exhausted, disillusioned about aid work in political conflicts and a little lost as far as the next career move.  Its been difficult to fit back into American life even though there are plenty of friends and family around.  We just don't want to 'do' what everyone else is 'doing' job-wise.  Any job here wouldn't really utilze all of our skills, experience and sense of adventure we've built up over the years.  But does that mean packing off to another foreign country again?  Can we start a family doing this?  Will our loved ones and friends stress out over our well-being again?...

So you can see why I haven't posted in several months.  The mental journey to the next destination is still in progress.

Our Work

As promised, here are some pictures...

Our Work

While running a multi-sector program gets a bit schizophrenic at times, the rewards come from meeting the challenge and seeing the results in the individuals and the communities which we serve.

At the welcome relief of our loved ones, we will be leaving Sudan in mid-May, if not sooner.  I can sense the concern through one of my good friend's recent email in which she wrote:

"You guys have had more adventure than anyone, including your friends and family, can stand."

It goes without saying that we, too, are thrilled about our imminent departure.  The insecurity and stress over the past months have us so burnt out that we cancelled our plans to travel to other exotic (albeit less dangerous) destinations after our departure from Sudan.  The relative safety and comfort of the States is calling us to return directly home.

Overdue Update

The following is an update written by my husband.  I will try to post some more pictures to go along with it very soon...

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"We have about 9 weeks left on our project and things are going very well. We've got our women's center and vet center running, the latter stock piled with more fodder than I've ever seen. We've distributed chickens and are looking at buying some donkeys and goats to distribute. And we have provided shelter to about 825 people in the last 3 weeks which has been the most feel-good part of the project so far. Here is a picture of the crap shelter the people have been living in (foreground) and the one we are helping them build (the one the guy is working on in the background).

It has been a very interesting experience working in international aid. The work we're doing is like the Peace Corps but in bizarro reverse. In Peace Corps we first learned the language, ingrained ourselves in the community and then did grass roots development with very little money. Here we have lots of money, developing a plan conceived in another country, plopped in the middle of community with virtually no language skills.

The security has been rather tense to say the least. Lately we have heard many rumors. We heard rumors that arms were being distributed to the janjaweed just outside of Kass. And that the janjaweed leaders met up and decided that they would assassinate Fur leaders and pillage the IDP (internally displaced person) camps if the UN peacekeepers come to Darfur. Additionally, the host community just had their food rations severed by World Food Program (WFP) and told the African Union (AU) peacekeepers that they would loot the next food distribution for the IDPs. Oh, and someone cut the main phone line so we, and western Darfur, were without phone for 2 weeks. Good times.

In other news, funding for Darfur has been drastically cut despite all the recent talk of UN and NATO coming. Most other NGOs budgets have been slashed 70 - 80% which makes some sense as the conflict is no longer in the emergency phase but the situation is definitely not getting better. MSF, or doctors without borders, and Oxfam are leaving our town and the rest of the folks sticking around are running with limited staff. The 2 million or so displaced people are still homeless, jobless and crammed into tiny locations where they feel safe. Sounds like Detroit – except with a lot more sand, heat and more Kalashnikovs.

On the home front, I am still anti-pigeon and am 3 for 3 in camel spider whacking. Alas, I am being outsmarted by our kitchen mouse. It is like a bad episode of Tom & Jerry. I have plugged the mouse hole no less then 7 times. The first lame attempt was with rocks which he just kicked out; once with a crumpled up empty pasta bag and the last 5 times with cement. Yes, cement. And the bugger has thwarted me every time. He has dug around the cement. He has even dug through the still setting cement - twice. My last attempt is to catch him in a bucket trap.

We got offered the opportunity (?) to open an office in northern Uganda to do work in southern Sudan. This is either high praise for opening up the office here so well or our employer is trying to haze us into quitting. There are probably 3 worse spots security-wise to be than Darfur right now and the border of Sudan and Uganda is up there. Here is a recent story of violence against UNHCR http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/4813352.stm. While the janjaweed are a loose band of murderous militia armed by the Sudanese govt., they actually don't mess with NGO's (that much). The LRA, Lord's Resistance Army, on the other hand are ruthless, unconscionable mercenaries targeting anyone. No one travels without an armed escort around the border, and if you survive all that watch out for landmines. So with all this in mind we declined their generous offer.

One last thing, I discovered I possess a talent heretofore unknown to me. It is uncanny actually. Each day, without fail, I interrupt at least one of our staff while they are praying."